Quick To Conclude

On a recent trip to a property I was called out to, the home owner was concerned about mold growing on the ceiling in several locations.  After spending some time going over what the issue was and how it was to be remediated, she informed me of a different company who took a look at the basement and explained that she had mold on the joists.  So I went down and took a look and could see what they were saying was mold, but didn’t agree.  I explained to the customer, as I do to everyone, that without positive proof of mold growth, (like on drywall or plaster), all areas are suspect until tested.  I had told her that a lot of companies use this sort of tactic, where they go into a house for one thing and look around with a plan to find another even if it doesn’t exist.  She agreed and allowed me to take a few surface samples of the suspected areas.  Two days later the results came back showing she had no mold whatsoever.  So, if she had agreed with the other contractor who even went so far to say that she was going to get sick and that if she didn’t do the job the floors would have to be completely ripped up soon, she would have wasted her money.  And the next part that was bothersome, was the contractor telling her that all they had to do was spray the joists down with a “special chemical,” and the mold would disappear.  Once again it brings us back to the point I always try to make, and that’s to do your Due Diligence.  Mold Remediation, like every other business, has its good contractors and its bad contractors, and it’s your job to use your best judgement to weed them out.

Improper Shower Installation

You’ve hired someone to build your tile shower in your bathroom, but how do you know he or she’s doing it correctly? How do you know that it won’t leak? Most homeowners don’t know all the in’s and out’s of remodeling their bathroom. Sadly, the contractors they’ve hired don’t always know either, or worse, they simply don’t do it right.

Here’s some of the reasons that showers tend to leak:

1. Why cut the shower liner if you don’t have to? When dealing with inside corners of a shower, they should be folded rather than cut. If you have an outside corner, you will have to cut and patch the corner according to the liner manufacturer’s instructions. It is possible to cut the corners, patch them properly, and have it not leak. How do you know if your shower leaks?
2. Most of the problems in this regard have to deal with how the curb is dealt with. The shower pan liner must go up the wall 3 inches above the framing of the curb, according to Tile Council of North America (TCNA) standards. It also need to go up and over the curb to the non-wet area (the front of the shower). Where it gets tricky is at the corners of the curb because you normally have to cut it to get it to fold over the framing. The shower pan companies make pre-formed corners for just this purpose. Make sure you, or your installer, use them.
3. What good does it do to run you shower pan liner 3″ above the curb if you put a nail in at the bottom? If you see nails below the curb level in the shower, it’s time to look for another tile setter. Keep in mind, if you are using a waterproofing over the surface, like Schluter’s Kerdi or Custom’s Redgard, this doesn’t apply. But if you are doing a mud pan with a liner underneath the mud, nailing below the curb level is a no-no. In regards to the curb, there should be no nails or penetrations of any kind on the inside or top of the curb. Nails, staples, or glue can be used to attach the liner to the front, non-wet, side of the curb.
4. If someone is using cement board on the top, or inside, of the curb then they do not know what they are doing. How do they plan on attaching the cement board to the curb? The proper way to do it is with metal lath and a sand/cement mix- the same thing the shower pan is supposed to be made out of.Exception: If you are using a surface waterproofing such as Schluter’s Kerdi fabric or Laticrete’s liquid Hydroban then it’s OK to nail or screw cement board on the curb as the waterproofing will go over the top of it and not be beneath it.
5. While this doesn’t cause a shower to leak it certainly will tell you whether it’s leaking or not. A flood test is when you plug the drain and fill the shower up with water to just below the curb. If you have a leak anywhere, you will know before it gets tiled. Put a mark on the wall and wait 24 hours. If the water is lower than the mark you have a leak.

   Insist on a flood test. Write it into the contract if necessary.

Check Before Entering

This pictures shows an attic with blown in insulation, (Cellulose), after a contractor entered the attic and accidentally stepped on a fire sprinkler.  The line snapped nearly in half and hundreds of gallons of water and anti-freeze, flooded the attic and the rooms below.  The water made it’s way down two floors and caused over $45,000 in total damage to the home and personal contents.  How could this have been avoided?  The contractor didn’t see the sprinkler line because it was buried under the insulation, but made the error of blindly walking up a darkened attic and thinking he was about to step on a piece of framing.  Additionally, there is a tank nearest the attic hatch that he didn’t take under consideration upon entering that is a clear indication of a sprinkler line.  But the home owners themselves were unaware that such plumbing existed in that section of the home.  Knowing the layout of your entire home, and all of the systems within, could have been helpful and provided the contractor with a warning prior to entering the attic.  For the contractor, checking the attic before moving about, and simply seeing that sprinklers were everywhere on the second floor of the property jetting out of the ceiling clearly indicated plumbing feeds must be in the attic.  It’s an unfortunate accident for each party, and the lesson should always be, check before entering any section of the home, especially those to which are poorly lit and rarely ever used.

Being Fooled By Hype

Years ago, to gain exposure via television or radio would have resulted in an increased flow of revenue and jobs, while also giving you an opportunity to boast your achievement.  The bragging rights from such an event could lead to months worth of business and gave the contractor a platform in which he could prove his worth over others.  But today, this type of exposure may seem glorified, but is it really worth anything?  Reality television has become one of the most popular forms of mediums on the market, and Do It Yourself Programs are more popular now than they ever were.  A while back these kind of shows didn’t exist except for This Old House or watching Norm in his wood shop.  But now, you can watch twin brothers buy and renovate a house cheaply, (with cheap, dressed up materials), real estate agents fight over listings and many other shows showing renovations from start to finish.  So the question is, when a contractor tells you during his pitch that he’s been on one, two or many of these DIY shows, does that mean that they should be your choice?

The answer is NO.  Why?  Because here’s how these shows work using four examples from shows that have contacted us, but only needing one example to explain them all.  As far back as June 2006, we were contacted by a producer that was preparing to film their show in the Philadelphia area.  She explained that the home needed some remediation of both water and mold and they wanted us to complete the job and have the great opportunity of being on their program.  But the catch was that the remediation work we were to complete would be for FREE.  Our pay, as she explained, was to be on the program and have the great opportunity of exposure an HGTV provides, and although the project would cost $6,700 it would be well worth it for us to do it anyhow because the publicity we get from being on their show would far outweigh monetary loss.

My answer was No.  Because for the few seconds they would actually air us on their program would not be worth our time, and we are a company that does not give kickbacks or barter.  Their second pitch was to give us extended clips that may not be televised, but these clips could show us interacting with the host and the new owners for use on our website.  Again, our answer was NO, because we don’t do kickbacks or barter.  So, keep this in mind the next time you have a contractor using this as their sales pitch, because they’re not alone.  Dozens and dozens of contractors have now been on these types of shows and it’s for a reason, they’re doing it for free, or doing it at a very minor cost just to be on TV.  Regardless, it is an honor to be on television or to be mentioned publicly, but remember just like commercials not every thing you see on television is true.

For more, visit our website at BIOWASHING.com

Pre-Winter To Do List

Weather stripping around doors and the threshold seal at the bottom of doors can wear out or become damaged over time. Replacing damaged weather stripping or thresholds can make a big difference in your home’s energy efficiency. There are several different types and sizes of weather stripping for doors, so take a piece with you to the home center to make sure you buy the right one. Newer doors have weather stripping that’s simply cut to length and pushed into a groove around the door. Older doors can be sealed using self-adhesive foam or rigid strips that are nailed in place around the door.

The rubber gasket in metal thresholds can also be replaced. Remove the rubber threshold strip, and take it with you to the home center to find the correct replacement. If you can’t find a rubber replacement strip or the threshold is damaged, buy a new threshold of the correct length and height. Use a hacksaw to cut the new threshold to length, and notch it around the door casing. After test fitting it to make sure the door closes tightly on the rubber seal, apply a bead of caulk to the underside of the threshold, set it in place, and attach it to the floor using the screws provided.

Caulk Cracks

Even very small cracks and gaps in your home’s siding and trim can make a big difference in the heating bill this winter! Check your siding – particularly aroundwindows, doors, and vents – for cracked boards, gaps, and cracks. Repair cracks according to the size of the gap:

• Small Cracks: Fill cracks smaller than 1/4” with a bead of exterior-grade paintable caulk.
• Larger Cracks and Gaps: Before caulking, fill cracks wider than 1/4” by pushing foam backer rod into the hole until it’s just below the surface. Then, cover the backer rod with caulk and smooth the surface.
• Holes and Large Gaps: Fill large holes and gaps with expandable spray foam in a can. Carefully spray the foam into the space, allowing plenty of room for it to expand. After the foam has hardened, trim it flush and paint or stain it to match.

For more Information visit our website at Biowashing.com

Checking Toilets For Leaks

A constantly running toilet can waste thousands of gallons a water a year and drive up your utility bills. Check your toilets regularly, and replace any parts that are no longer functioning as they should. Most toilet repair jobs are fairly easy to do yourself.

To Check & Repair a Toilet

• Adjust Water Level in Tank: If your toilet runs when it hasn’t been flushed, remove the lid and check the water level inside the tank. If it’s set too high, the water will spill into the overflow tube and cause the intake valve to keep running. To adjust the water level, turn the adjustment screw located either on top or at the base of the water intake mechanism in the tank. Set the water level so it stops filling 1/4″ or more below the top of the overflow tube. Many intake valves are marked with a recommended water level for maximum effectiveness with minimum waste.
• Replace Flapper: Put a few drops of food coloring in the water in your toilet tank, and allow it to remain without flushing for a time. If the water in the toilet bowl changes color without being flushed, the rubber flapper valve at the bottom of the tank needs to be replaced. These are easy to replace by shutting off the water to the toilet, flushing the tank to empty it, and replacing the old flapper with a new one.
• Replace Flushing Mechanism: If the above fixes don’t work, it may be time to replace the entire flushing mechanism. Look for a packaged replacement kit, so you’ll have all the parts as well as installationinstructions. Turn the water off at the shut-off valve and flush to empty the tank before removing and replacing the water intake tank mechanism.
• Fix Toilet Floor Leak: If your toilet is leaking at the floor when flushed, first try gently tightening the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor. Be careful not to over tighten – you don’t want to crack the ceramic bowl! If this doesn’t stop the leak, you’ll need to remove the toilet and replace the wax ring around the drain pipe. Check out our article on How To Remove and Replace a Toilet for more info.
• Fix Toilet Tank to Bowl Leak: Toilets can also leak between the tank and bowl when the toilet is flushed. To fix, turn off the water, drain the tank, remove the bolts in the bottom of the tank that attach the tank to the bowl, and replace the rubber gasket between the tank and bowl, as well as the bolts and gaskets which hold the tank and bowl together.

For more information, visit our website at Biowashing.com

Residential Gutters

When shopping for a gutter system, a homeowner will have to choose among a variety of materials, including aluminum, galvanized steel, vinyl, copper, and wood. Installers price gutter systems per linear foot, but this price should include all the necessary components for a gutter system, including the gutters, downspouts (the vertical section), corner joints, end caps, and hanging brackets.

Aluminum is the most popular gutter on the market, as it is relatively inexpensive, durable, and easy to work with. Unlike steel, aluminum will not rust over time, and is available in a wide range of colors. Gutter installers will often quote a price (which includes installation) at a “per linear foot” price; although costs for an aluminum system will vary, homeowners may expect somewhere around $3-6 per linear foot.

Steel gutter systems are usually galvanized, although stainless steel options exist as well. Galvanized steel gutters will eventually rust after 20-25 years, but steel is strong and durable, making it a popular option for regions that experience extreme weather, heavy rains, and snow. Steel is slightly more expensive than aluminum; with prices averaging around $8-10 per linear foot. Stainless steel, which doesn’t rust, sells for upwards of $20 per linear foot.

Copper is also one of the more durable gutter options. Copper brings a certain aesthetic to a home’s facade, appealing to property owners looking to customize their home. “Copper is one of the strongest metals,” says Mike Milliman, a partner with theRainTrade Corporation. “It is suitable for any region.” Copper sits at the high-end of the gutter market, selling for anywhere from $12-25 per linear foot. Homeowners who are interested in a copper gutter system should consider the “patina” aspect of copper, which gradually ages and changes color with exposure to the elements. “A copper gutter system will only stay shiny for the first month or two,” Milliman says. “It will turn brown, dark brown, purple, and eventually a greenish color. Homeowners need to expect these changes.”

Vinyl is one of the least-expensive gutter options on the market, and is also very easy to cut and work with, making these gutters suitable for DIY installations. Vinyl gutter systems are prominent in home stores because of the easy of assembly and availability of component parts. At around $3-5 per linear foot, vinyl is most affordable option for gutter installations. Vinyl tends to become brittle and break in colder climates. It is also not as sturdy or durable as metal counterparts.